HORN KITS FOR CARS

It takes a corner of it, not the whole thing. The trunk is where most car installs end up, since it offers the largest open space on the vehicle. The tank and compressor typically tuck into the spare-tire well or against a rear wheel arch instead of sitting out on the floor. It doesn't have to be the trunk on every kit, though the 3 Liter kits use an air system that isn't weather resistant. Those should stay in an enclosed spot instead.

The Rocker and Conductor's Special kits, because their trumpets mount individually rather than sitting on one bulky manifold. That lets you spread the horns out and place them wherever the car has room, even across opposite sides of the vehicle, which is often the difference between a kit that fits and one that does not. The 2-Chime and 4-Chime kits are the compact alternative, but each horn is one complete unit, so it usually has to go behind the grille or front bumper. Work out where the trumpets can live before you choose a kit.

No, not when it is wired correctly. The compressor should take its power through an ignition-switched source, so the system only builds pressure while the car is running and draws nothing at all once you shut it off. The mistake behind almost every battery complaint is wiring the compressor to constant power instead: with a live feed, anything that lowers tank pressure while the car sits can close the pressure switch and start the compressor. A properly sealed system will not leak down on its own.

Usually yes, but only small mounting holes that stay out of sight. The tank and compressor have to be fastened to something solid so nothing shifts while you drive. That usually means a few holes in the trunk floor, a wheel well, or a frame member. Many installs reuse existing factory holes and bolts where they line up. The trumpets go up front behind the grille or bumper and can often be secured to existing structure there.

It depends far more on whether you want onboard air than on which horn you pick. A straight electric swap such as the Sniper Electric Horn is the least expensive route and doesn't require a tank at all. The musical horns sit in similar territory. A full air horn kit costs more, since you're buying a compressor, a tank, a pressure switch, and air line alongside the trumpets. It climbs further from there with tank size and trumpet length.

The fastest bolt-in upgrade is the Sniper Electric Horn, our loudest electric horn. It wires in place of your factory horn and runs off its own on-demand mini compressor joined by air tubing on a 12-volt system. It pulls up to 20 amps, so wire it through the included relay rather than tapping the stock horn wiring directly. If you want true train-horn volume, look at the Conductor's Special Train Horn Kit. It is built around our Shocker XL Train Horn and adds its own onboard air system rather than replacing the stock horn.