Help Center · Installation
Plan the layout, follow the instructions, and mount each major component so the kit lasts as long as the vehicle.
Take your time and install by the book. Rushing or forcing parts into tight spots shortens kit life and makes service harder.
Installation brackets let you build the kit on a bench first. Without a bracket, check dimensions and weights on each product’s Specifications tab and confirm space on the vehicle before purchasing.
Even if this is not your first install, review the instructions so you do not void the warranty with a bad mount.
The tank can sit however it fits best, but the drain cock must be on the bottom-most port so moisture can leave. HornBlasters tanks typically have ports on top, bottom, ends, and side for flexible orientation.
Every port must be used or plugged. On a custom build, plan for at least: drain cock, safety blowoff, pressure switch, air gauge, and compression / outlet fittings.
Install the compressor upright so heat leaves through the head fins. If rain or dust is a risk, relocate the air filter (kits include a relocation kit). Non-sealed compressors must stay dry — trunk, toolbox, topped bed, or cab. Tank-mounted units on 127H / 228H-style systems are typically not fully sealed; many 232 and higher kits can live outside.
The switch turns the compressor on and off. Most are water-resistant, not waterproof. In harsh conditions, relocate it with a tee and air line. Over-torquing can shear the threads — hand-tighten only.
Inline valves are directional. The arrow on brass valves must point toward the horns. A backwards valve will not seal and can leave the horns humming. Valves are dual-polarity — either wire can be power or ground.
Keep the system healthy — drain the air tank regularly and replace the compressor air filter.
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